By Jennifer Poindexter Do you need a beautiful, unique, but low-maintenance shrub for your home? If so, you’ll be hard pressed to find a plant as …

How to Grow Turk’s Cap Flowers (Malvaviscus arboreus), Explained

The Fall/Winter Harvest Seed Bank includes a collection of all the seeds you need to grow your favorite fall and winter crops.

These seeds thrive in cold weather and are extremely hardy.

You will be able to grow your own brussels sprouts, carrots, kale, broccoli, turnips, swiss chards and so much more. With over 20 popular varieties included, this seed bank is your #1 seed bank of choice for seeds that thrive in cooler temps.

What’s Included?

• Over 6,500 seeds in total (all seeds can be saved for multiple planting seasons)
  
• BONUS! We’re including 25 seed starting soil pellets (so you can start your seeds indoors!)
  
• Seeds are individually packaged and labeled in resealable bags and then secured in a Mylar bag (provides two layers of protection from moisture and light)

Many of you expressed interest in setting up and growing a vegetable garden this summer.

Most of the vegetables do not like extreme heat. I wouldn’t recommend the mindset of traditional growing seasons if you have never grown in Florida! Planning ahead makes the difference.

Fall is perfect for all the cool weather loving starts. The daily rain works in our favor if you’d like to try growing a fall garden. Summer requires daily watering and fending off heat loving pests! Everyone deserves a break from the heat!!! So give it a try!

Remember the prices on the produce aisle? That should be motivation enough! The best part is you won’t have to worry about how or where your produce was grown.

If you aren’t really “into gardening” but like a little spice in your life, why not grow some herbs?

Herbs such as oregano, rosemary and basil are great in a planter. They also enjoy a little cool weather. The oregano plant that I have is at least 20 years old! Ah fresh herbs. Just the smell makes me hungry!

Get out there and then you can Mangia Bene! (Eat Well). Ciao (chow?) No….🤪

Guide to The Different Gardening Zones

Plants grow best in specific locations due to the temperature and climate that they can tolerate. Across the country, temperatures can vary significantly from one coast to another, within the same state, or from one state to the next.

When planting flowers it is important for people to understand what grows best where they live and what will likely not thrive at all. For this purpose there is a resource known as the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.

This map vertically divides the country into thirteen zones of hardiness for gardening in winter temperatures. The zones are based on the coldest annual minimum temperatures in a region based on averages over a period of thirty years. Each of the planting zones is numbered, with Zone 1 being the region with the coldest annual temperatures and Zone 13 being the hottest. Each zone on the map is separated by ten degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, each zone is further broken down into “a” and “b” sub-zones that are divided by five degrees Fahrenheit.

Understanding and following the gardening zones is one of the best ways to ensure a beautiful and healthy garden.

Zone 1

Zone 1 can be found in areas with extreme minimum temperatures of -50 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. Areas within this zone are further divided into 1a and 1b. The temperature range in zone 1a is between -60 and -55 degrees, while 1b is -55 to -50 degrees Fahrenheit. Parts of Alaska, including Bettles and North Slope, are zone 1. Plants such as the quaking aspen, dwarf birch and black crowberry will grow well in zone 1.

Zone 2

Zone 2 is another area with inhospitably cold temperatures, and is mapped with annual cold temperatures between -50 and -40 degrees Fahrenheit. People who live in this planting zone can successfully plant the American elm, American cranberry bush and the silverberry. Some plants do best in one of the specific growing zones. For example, bearberry is most successfully planted in zone 2b where the minimum temperature range is between -45 degrees Fahrenheit and -40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Zone 3

Zone 3 is an area that is known for relatively cold winters and short summers. Plants that can survive temperatures between -30 and -40 degrees Fahrenheit are suitable for this zone. Aster is a flower that will thrive here, as will black-eyed Susans and tulips. Areas in Alaska are zone 3 as are areas in North Dakota, Montana, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. Zone 3 is further divided in half into garden zones 3a and 3b.

Zone 4

This zone ranges from 30 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit with the last frost occurring in early June. Like Zone 3, the winters are cold while the summers are short. Plants that thrive in Zone 4 include the Japanese yew, ginkgo, the Trumpet Honeysuckle, and the Persian violet. Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, and parts of New York and Maine are all parts of Zone 4.

Zone 5

Zone 5 is found in regions where the last frost occurs in late May and the lowest temperatures are between -20 and -10 degrees Fahrenheit. Sub-zones split these coldest temperatures, with 5a being -20 to -15 degrees Fahrenheit and 5b being -15 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit. Areas within this zone have winters that are cold and windy, and summers that tend to be long. Gardeners who are both casual and professional may plant plants such as the Japanese maple, Japanese holly, the multiflora rose, Shasta daisies, and tulips. Vegetables and fruits that grow well in this zone include spinach, strawberries and tomatoes.

Zone 6

In Zone 6, plants may safely tolerate temperatures of -10 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. The summer weather conditions in Zone 6 are usually dry and long. The winters are often windy and very cold. This zone nearly bisects the country and is found in states such as New Mexico, Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Ohio, and West Virginia. Other states including parts of Washington, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts are also Zone 6 to some extent. The last frost in these areas tends to be around mid-May. Plants and flowers that grow well in Zone 6 include the English lavender, purple coneflower, hydrangeas, English yew, English holly, and American holly.

Zone 7

Areas with lowest temperatures between 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit are known as Zone 7. Generally the last frost in these areas is in late April. Flowers and plants that thrive in this planting zone include the Kurume azalea, daffodils, crocuses, lilies and pansies. Plants that grow best in sub-zones include chinaberry, Monterey pine, and monkey puzzle, all of which grow best if temperatures reach no lower than 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit or 7b. On the map, Zone 7 is found in states that include, but are not limited to, Texas, Nevada, California, Washington, Oregon, and Virginia.

Zone 8

People living in Zone 8 are able to safely plant flowers and other plants that can tolerate low temperatures from 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. People who live in subzone 8a may plant flowers in temperatures as low as 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. People living in zone 8b can plant in minimum temperatures from 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone 8 covers much of the lower half of the U.S. and can be found in states such as California, Nevada, Arizona, Texas, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, and South Carolina, to name a few. Plants and flowers that are suitable for this zone include oleander, Indian azalea, hybrid rhododendron, butterfly blue, and purple-top verbena

Zone 9

Warm weather flowers and plants are suitable for planting in zone 9, where the annual minimum temperature is 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The gardening zones in zone 9 are zone 9a and 9b. Plants in zone 9a will tolerate minimum temperatures of no lower than 20 to 25 degrees Fahrenheit. In 9b, the lowest temperature for flowers or plants should be 25 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone 9 occupies most of the lower states including California, Arizona, Texas, and Florida, to name a few. Plants that are well suited for this area include fuchsias, asparagus-fern, Australian pine, and Chinese hibiscus.

Zone 10

Zone 10 gardeners are dealing with warmer temperatures that are not suitable for cold weather plants. The average minimum annual temperatures that plants can safely tolerate in these regions are 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The two planting zones that make up zone 10 are 10a and 10b. Examples of where these garden zones are found include California, parts of Arizona and East Texas, Louisiana, Florida, and some of the Hawaiian Islands. Bougainvillea, poinsettia, royal palm, and rubber plants all grow well in zone 10.

Zone 11

This is a tropical zone that is found in some areas of Southern California, the Florida Keys, the Hawaiian Islands and Puerto Rico. Annual minimum temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The growing zones in zone 11 include 11a and 11 b. Geraniums, impatiens, and veronica or speedwell, are flowers that do well within these zones.

Zones 12 and 13

According to the USDA Hardiness Zone Map, these garden zones apply to the Hawaiian Islands and Puerto Rico and are not found on mainland USA. Temperatures for zone 12 are 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone 13 temperatures are 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Each of the two zones has sub zones that split them by 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Musk okra, caterpillar plant, and knife acacia are flowers that grow in these zones.

Daytona Beach 9a, 9b

Destin 8b

Gainesville 9a

Jacksonville Zone 8b, 9a

Lake City 8b

Ocala 9a

Orlando 9b

Panama Beach 8b, 9a

Pensacola 9a

Tallahassee Zone 8b

Growing Zone 5-8

Rebecca Finneran is a garden expert, and even she was seduced by the rose campion.
Finneran, a senior horticulture educator with the Michigan State University Extension, planted the perennial, known for its gray foliage and magenta blooms, in her home garden.

But it had a mind of its own.
“I loved that plant. And I suddenly realized that it was coming up down the hill in the woods from my garden,” she says. “And I would faithfully go down there and dig it up and bring it back. And then I looked out one day and, holy mackerel, there’s hundreds of them.”
While the rose campion isn’t technically classified as invasive in Michigan, it’s a plant that can quickly spread, popping up in unwanted places or pushing out other native species. It’s a reminder to gardeners to be responsible for what they plant, Finneran says. That means, for example, avoiding true invasives, monitoring energetic spreaders or non-disease-resistant varieties, and managing plants that can be water hogs or fire risks.
“I think gardeners need to better observe what their plants do,” she says.
So while it might be love at first sight at the garden center, research whatever you plant to make sure you aren’t introducing a problem like one of the varieties of bamboo that have proven to be invasive in the United States. One of Finneran’s most important garden tools is her phone, which she uses to research cultivars before she buys them to see if they are plants not to plant. What should you be on the lookout for? Here are four categories to help you know:

1. Invasives
   For homeowners, super-spreaders like rose campion can be a pain, but invasives are a whole other level of headache. When plants like bush honeysuckle or Mexican petunia escape your garden and intrude on the natural landscape, they displace native species, threaten the ecosystem, affect fire patterns and even change the biochemistry of the soil, says Deah Lieurance, a member of the faculty at the University of Florida and chair of the Florida Invasive Species Council. Florida spends $45 million a year trying to clear conservation areas of invasive species, most of which have been introduced through horticulture, Lieurance says.
   How do you know if a plant is invasive? County extension agents and master gardener programs have information, and many states have invasive plant councils that assess risks, says Lieurance. Some states, like Massachusetts, maintain a list of banned plants.
   Last year, the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture instituted a ban on nurseries and stores selling Bradford (or Callery) pear trees, loved by homeowners and builders for their fast growth and showy flowers. But the trees spread and crowd out other species, grow spurs that make walking through brush difficult, have long taproots that complicate removal and self-destruct after 15 or 20 years, says Theresa Culley, who heads the biological sciences department at the University of Cincinnati and works with Ohio’s Invasive Plants Council.
   Not all non-native plants are invasive: It’s OK to grow something that doesn’t grow naturally in your area as long as it doesn’t pose a threat, Culley says. But do the research to find out which ones are safe.
2. Water hogs
   Depending on where you live or what drought conditions may be in effect, water may be scarce or expensive. It’s therefore strategic to look for plants that require little water or to group water-lovers like astilbe and ligularia in one area of your garden so heavy watering is limited to one spot, says Finneran, who writes about water-smart gardens for Michigan State. Here, too, it pays to research a plant to learn about its native habitat. For example, the red maple is popular with homeowners, but it’s also known as swamp maple, which says a lot about its water needs.
   “In my world, we’re constantly diagnosing plant problems that we create ourselves because we have one uniform irrigation practice,” Finneran says. “We’re irrigating the plants that hate to be irrigated along with the plants that love to be irrigated.”
   Also, consider where you place container plants. A container tomato will need more water if it sits in a heat-absorbing location like an exposed deck or a stone patio.
   Look for plants that fit your conditions and what you can manage, Finneran suggests. “It’s really hard for the beginning gardener because the beginning gardener looks at a magazine and they go, ‘Oh, I want that.’ You just can’t have it all. It’s like buying clothes that don’t fit you.”
3. Disease spreaders
   Gardeners tend to design by shape or color, but Finneran advises that you factor in disease resistance or you risk having a weak cultivar that spreads a pathogen like powdery mildew throughout your flower bed.
   “One of my favorite plants is tall phlox,” she says. “They’re fragrant, they’re colorful, but oh my gosh, some of them are really resistant to powdery mildew, and some of them are terrible.” Her solution? Removing susceptible cultivars from her flower beds and replacing them with varieties that are disease resistant.
   “Keep in mind that the more disease you allow to be in the garden, the more disease you’ll have,” she says.
4. Fire risks
   This winter’s Marshall fire near Boulder, Colorado, which destroyed over 1,000 homes, is a tragic reminder of the increased risk of wildfires, says Christopher Jones, who’s responsible for agriculture and natural resources extension programs at the University of Arizona. The latest strategy for fire safety is to prevent wildfire embers from igniting materials — including plants — around a house, he says.
   “Now they say no plants within zero to 5 feet of the structure, and we’re recommending that you use containers, things you can move out of the way in case of a fire,” he says.
   Jones offers presentations on how to be fire wise, and several western state extension services distribute an ember awareness checklist. While no plant species is totally fireproof, deciduous plants tend to be the most fire resistant because the leaves have a high moisture content, he says. That’s opposed to plants that have mechanisms to retain moisture — including conifers, junipers and pines, and arborvitae. “They have needles or scales so they can hold that moisture,” he says. “That’s done because of the oils and resins that are in those needles. The presence of [those oils] just allows them to really burn hot.”
   Aromatic plants are dangerous, Jones says, since it’s the oils that make them smell so good. Rosemary is one example. “Great, easy plant for us to grow around here,” Jones says, “but if it catches on fire, it’s going to burn very hot.”
   Even a fire-wise plant can become a problem if it isn’t kept trimmed and free of detritus. “You want to keep them well maintained rather than allowing a lot of dead material to build up around them,” Jones says.
   Fire risk is yet another reason to avoid invasive plants, Jones says. Buffel grass and red brome, for instance, are range grasses that were introduced into the West and have contributed to wildfires, he says.
   For more information on how to protect yourself and your property, check with your extension service or fire department

History and Mission of National Garden Clubs

• National Garden Club
• Florida Federation of Garden Clubs
• Deep South Region
• Deltona Garden Club

National Garden Clubs, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) organization that aims to promote the love of gardening, floral design, and civic and environmental responsibility and we help coordinate the interests and activities of state and local garden clubs in the U.S. and abroad.

Officers and Directors

The First Garden Club

The first garden club meeting in the United States took place in Athens, Georgia in 1891.  It occurred during a time when women were seeking knowledge about a variety of subjects in study clubs of those with like interests.  They felt they needed more knowledge, as they had not had the benefit of a formal higher education.  

The topic of gardening was a logical choice for women in Athens, as it was the site of the University of Georgia with its botanical garden.  This garden had a collection of thousands of rare plants.  With the failure of the botanical garden, many residents had an interest in exchanging plants among themselves. 

The idea to have a garden club came from Dr. Edwin Dorset Newton, an Athens physician who had a keen interest in horticulture. Twelve women met in the home of Mrs. Edwin King Lumpkin on a January day in 1891 to form the Ladies’ Garden Club of Athens. The primary purpose was to study plants with each member studying a particular variety. These members dedicated themselves to the study of horticulture and the exchange of plants and ideas for the betterment of their community. Members were encouraged “to carry out experiments with different vegetables, flowers, seeds and so forth to find out which varieties were best.” The first flower show grew from the exhibitions of their flowers and vegetables.

Spring

Florida can be broken into three growing regions: North, Central, & South. Each has a slightly different climate (mainly depending possibility of freezing temperatures).

January-May

The spring growing season is the time of year to finish the last bit of the Winter harvest (mainly leafy herbs and veggies) & begin the process of planting fruiting plants. The Spring season begins with the occurrence of the LAST FROST. This can be as late as April 15th in North Florida or as early as January in South Florida. Central Florida tends have their last frost around early to mid March. Mother Nature can be unpredictable though, so each year is always unique.

Spring is the Opportunity to grow the largest diversity of edible plants in the Florida Garden. Everything from leafy veggies, to mainly fruiting plants will populate the garden.

How long does Florida’s Spring Growing Season last?

The Spring growing Season is sandwiched between the coldest temperatures of the Florida Winter (which may or may not be freezing temperatures) and the ever-increasing Summer Heat.

On Average: the Spring Growing runs February (Last Frost depending on location in Florida) through May.

More Specifically: North Florida is normally the end of March through June. Central Florida March through May. South Florida December or January through April or May.

Summer

May-September

The hallmark of Florida’s Summer growing season are humid heat and almost daily rains. Summer tends to be too hot for many of the Spring Plants to thrive, but many fruiting plants started during Spring can be harvested into the Summer. 

There are two major keys to growing a successful Summer Garden in Florida; growing the garden in Morning Sun & Afternoon Shade and making sure that plants are well-watered. The Sun during the Summer time is very intense, in fact too intense for many plants. It is recommended for the novice, especially during the Summer, to emphasize container gardening. This will give the gardener the ability to move plants around into less sunny or more sunny spots that the plants may find more suitable. Pay careful attention to what the plants are telling you, if they become droopy, while having been well-watered, this is a sign that they need to be in more shade and less sun.

Summer being such a sweltering season in much of the state, make sure that the plants are getting enough water. Signs that need water may include: wilting, droopy appearance, dusty soil (not moist to the touch, etc. Due to the excessive heat it can not be overly emphasized how critical careful attention to regular watering of the garden can be.

How long does Florida’s Summer Growing Season last?

On Average: The Summer growing season typically lasts May through September.

More Specifically: North Florida is normally June through September. Central Florida runs Mid-May through Early October. South Florida typically begins in late April and can run as late as November.

Winter

September-March

Florida’s Winter Growing Season runs between the slow cooling-off of the Fall through the end of Winter. This season is best suited for growing leafy veggies & herbs. Seeds can be started between Late Summer and into the Fall (September to Early December). 

Winter tends to be a dry season in Florida, rainfall is not as common as the Summer Season. Make sure to keep leafy Veggies well-watered and partial to full sun are acceptable during the Winter Season. The cooler it becomes, the more acceptable sun exposure becomes for the garden. 

As the weather cools, the bugs and pests become less active. Think of temperature as a dial, the warmer it is, the more active bugs (leaf mites, aphids, etc) become.

How long does Florida’s Winter Growing Season last?

On Average: The Winter growing season typically lasts September through March.

More Specifically: North Florida is normally September through March. Central Florida runs Mid-September through March. South Florida typically begins in late October and can run as late as February.

© Florida Seed & Garden 2022 credits

~ A well-manicured garden is a source of pride for any homeowner. It can be a beautiful addition to your property and can boost your home’s curb …

Keep Your Garden Neat And Tidy

Pollination Fast Facts: Gardeners

What is pollination?
• Pollination occurs when pollen grains are moved between two flowers of the same species, or within a single flower, by wind or animals that are pollinators. Successful pollination, which may require visits by multiple pollinators to a single flower, results in healthy fruit and fertile seeds, allowing plants to reproduce. Without pollinators, we simply wouldn’t have many crops!

• About 75% of all flowering plants rely on animal pollinators and over 200,000 species of animals act as pollinators. Of those, about 1,000 are hummingbirds, bats, and small mammals. The rest are insects such as beetles, flies, bees, ants, wasps, butterflies, and moths.
Why are pollinators important to us?
• Worldwide, approximately 1,000 plants grown for food, beverages, fibers, spices, and medicines need to be pollinated by animals in order to produce the goods on which we depend.

• Foods and beverages produced with the help of pollinators include blueberries, chocolate, coffee, melons, peaches, pumpkins, vanilla, and almonds. Plants that depend on a single pollinator species, and likewise, pollinators that depend on a single type of plant for food are interdependent. If one disappears, so will the other.

What about bees that sting? What about allergies?
• Most species of bees don’t sting. Although all female bees are physically capable of stinging, most bee species native to the U.S. are “solitary bees,” that is, not living in colonies and don’t sting unless they are physically threatened or injured. Only honey bees are defensive and may chase someone who disturbs their hive.
• It is wise, though, to avoid disturbing any bee or insect nest. For instance, if you spot an underground nest of ground-nesting bees, you might want to mark it with a stick so that it can be easily avoided.
• Some people are allergic to pollen of various flowering trees, plants and grasses, but not to all pollen. A common misunderstanding is that hay fever is caused by goldenrod pollen. It isn’t! Ragweed is the main offender and should be avoided.
Pollinator Partnership 600 Montgomery Street, STE 440 San Francisco, CA 94111 415-362-1137

Ways You Can Help!
What everyone can do for pollinators:
• Watch for pollinators. Get connected with nature. Take a walk, experience the landscape and look for pollinators’ midday in sunny, planted areas.
• Reduce your impact. Reduce or eliminate your pesticide use, increase green spaces, and minimize urbanization. Pollution and climate change affect pollinators, too!
• Plant for pollinators. Create pollinator-friendly habitat with native flowering plants that supply pollinators with nectar, pollen, and homes.

What you can do for pollinators:
• Create a pollinator-friendly garden habitat in just a few simple steps.
• Design your garden so that there is a continuous succession of plants flowering from spring through fall. Check for the species or cultivars best suited to your area and gradually replace lawn grass with flower beds.
• Plant native to your region using plants that provide nectar for adults plus food for insect larvae, such as milkweed for monarchs. If you do use non-native plants, choose ones that don’t spread easily, since these could become invasive.
• Select old-fashioned varieties of flowers whenever possible because breeding has caused some modern blooms to lose their fragrance and/or the nectar/pollen needed to attract and feed pollinators.
• Install ‘houses’ for bats and native bees. For example, use wood blocks with holes or small open patches of mud. As little as 12” across is sufficient for some bees.
• Avoid pesticides, even so-called “natural” ones such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). If you must use them, use the most selective and least toxic ones and apply them at night when most pollinators aren’t active.
• Supply water for all wildlife. A dripping faucet or a suspended milk carton with a pinhole in the bottom is sufficient for some insects. Other wildlife need a small container of water.

• Provide water for butterflies without letting it become a mosquito breeding area. Refill containers daily or bury a shallow plant saucer to its rim in a sunny area, fill it with coarse pine bark or stones and fill to overflowing with water.
• Share fun facts, such as: a tiny fly (a “midge”) no bigger than a pinhead is responsible for the world’s supply of chocolate; or one out of every three mouthfuls of food we eat is delivered to us by pollinators.
Pollinator Partnership 600 Montgomery Street, STE 440 San Francisco, CA 94111 415-362-1137

Eastern Tiger Swallowtails

When you see a large, showy butterfly flitting around your garden, a roadside, fields or woodsd, take a closer look. It may be an Eastern Tiger Swallowtail(Papilio glaucus), which is a native in eastern North America.  It’s at home in Florida, except the Florida Keys.  

From February to November, these butterflies feed on nectar from sturdy plants, particularly those that have “red or pink” flowers.  Look for adults with a wing span of 3.1 to 5.5 inches. Males are yellow with four black stripes on their forewings.  Females may be yellow or black.   The yellow females have a band of blue spots along their hind wings.  Black females do not have distinguishing markings, they are just dark. 

These dark females may be a species preservation mechanism as some predators will avoid them, thinking they are another form of swallowtail that is poisonous.

Eastern Tiger Swallowtail – Yellow

Adult Eastern Tiger Swallowtails live about a month.  They are loners and are frequently observed flying above the tree tops.   Males pursue females by frequenting areas that contain the kinds of  plants on which females prefer to lay their eggs.  To attract or tempt the females, the males  release a pheromone that encourages mating.  While courting, the butterflies engage in a ritual mating dance, fluttering their wings around each other before they land and mate.

Two to three broods may be produced each year in our area.  Trees and shrubs of the Magnoliaceae (magnolia) and  Rosaceae plant families are the favorite host plants on which the females lay their green eggs. 

As the young caterpillars develop, they are brown and white.  Then change to green with black, yellow and blue spots on the thorax. The caterpillar then goes into a resting stage, forming a chrysalis from which the butterfly will emerge